Climbing at the Monastery June 09

Tired of letting an especially rainy season dictate our weekend activities, we can only think of sleeping outside and climbing rocks. Setting out Friday afternoon, we find our way back to a small, free camping area above the town of Drake in the Big Thompson Canyon. Camping anywhere within a 50 mile radius of Estes Park usually requires you to pay money to sleep on the ground, charging you for things like a swimming pool, shower, and free wifi, which, in my opinion, are all things you avoid while camping. There are a few blessed spots in the nearby national forest where you can camp for free, usually in a much more picturesque setting and without the hum of a giant RV next door. You may have to contend with rowdy locals and a lot of beer cans and debris in your campsite, but I’ll take my chances. We were very lucky this weekend, as it was pretty quiet and the view was even better than I remembered. We clean up our campsite, set up our tent, and start a fire just as Mark and Kate arrive to join us.

Our breakfast nook

To the Monastery! We saddle up our gear Saturday morning for the short but steep hike through a gulley and into the Outer Gates of the Monastary. This climbing is all fingers and toes. There are dozens of holds to choose from as you ascent; you just have to find them and trust that you really can stand on a teeny tiny knob protruding from the face of the rock. Climbing for me is almost always as much psychological as it is physical for me, and these tall spires have a way of tricking you into thinking there is nowhere for your next move until you try it. Here’s the rundown:

Going to the Chapel 5.8
Most of the route is hidden from the belayer, so when Doug nervously calls down, “Hey can you look in the book and tell me where the anchors should be?” my blood pressure rises a little. Without a bolt in sight, Doug abandons the route and instead traverses to the anchor for the route next door. I follow him, with just enough fear crossing the traverse to keep me on my toes (literally). Afterwards, Mark leads the route next and eventually finds the original anchors, though they are about 50 feet above the last bolt.

Kate and Mark climb Going to the Chapel (the correct/hazardous way)

Simplexity 5.9+
Another pinchy finger shredding good time. Mark’s shoulder makes an excellent foot hold for those who are under 6 feet and can’t do a pull up.

CCD 5.1
Kate leads this earlier in the day and agrees to go back with me so that I can lead and practice setting a top rope. We agree that while being married to virtual rope guns makes for great climbing, it’s a good idea for us ladies to be leading climbs as well.

The Steeple (5.8)
Doug leads up the skinny tower with Mark seconding.

At this point our calves and fingers are aching and the clouds come in, so we head back to the campsite with just a little rain and thunder hovering over us. We get back to the campsite to find that the Access Fund folks who came to do some campsite maintenance left us a 6-pack of New Belgium Mighty Arrow. We cheer and make a mental note to join the Access Fund. Another thunderstorm finds the campsite just as our fajitas are coming off the fire and we have to eat dinner in the car, but the rest of the night is clear and peaceful.

Stormy sunset over Long's Peak

Pictures from the weekend are here, and be sure check out Kate's post and photos as well.