Rocky Mountain Highs, Midwestern Sensibilities....

Monday, September 01, 2008

Labor Day is for Climbing


At least, climbing is what ended up happening this weekend. Faced with the prospect of a three day weekend, no commitments, and wonderful weather, team Blocksma froze up. We had a number of folks ask to do something, and then we turned into doggysitters, which was also combined with a need to watch the spartans play at Cal Saturday night (guuuuh) topped with no less than three (four if you count liz) fantasy football drafts - meant we couldn't decide on anything at all.

Well, that's not true. We did most of all of the things itemized in the above list, and even managed to relax on a blanket in the sunshine, drink some tasty beers, and see some friends. Because the tone of this post is currently so nice and warm, I won't touch on the trainwreck that was the MSU secondary and defensive line, and also the fact that you needed ABC Gameplan to watch the stupid thing outside of California and Michigan - all you need to know is that I am excited to see them play a MAC team this weekend.

On Sunday we took in the early service at ToT, and then headed up the Poudre to meet Wade and climb some routes at the Palace. We've been up to the palace before, but only climbed one of the area's faces, and assumed that said face was all there really was to the area. Boy, were we wrong. Wade was happy to correct us though, and once we made it across the river (video below of the voyage back - Bella didn't really appreciate the hip-deep fast moving water) we followed Wade back into the caverns and columns.





First up was supposed to be a warmup route, a short ~40' pitch of 5.8.... at least, so we thought. The crux was the second move, just below the first bolt. Wade confessed to never have actually figured out how to do it. For some reason, i continued to put on my harness and give it a go - to come eventually to Wade's conclusion myself. I eventually monkeyed around the side of the column up to the second bolt, and then concluded the lead per normal. Wade went up on Toprope, but still had trouble and took my monkey route as well. Watching the two of us struggle madly, Liz declined to bother, and i went up a second time on TR to figure the sequence out. Turns out it was a pinchy, then balancy, then underclingy grunt fest through the crux, one that on the way out Wade identified on his guidebook as a 5.9+, not our assumed 5.8 warmup. Oh well!

We hiked inward into the columns and brush, and followed Wade over to the Vatoville area of the Palace. Just past the Batcave, we set up shop below the climb Escelara, a long (actual) 5.8. It was a really fun, slightly pumpy 5 bolts to a stemmy, relatively exposed quasi-chimney with three bolts and chains at the top. Everyone took a turn on the route and agreed it was fun for the whole family. At this point it was late in the afternoon already, and we were almost ready to throw in the towel... until we went around the corner and simply had to get one more in.

While i can't seem to find what the route is called on Mountain Project, it appeared to be another short, interesting 5.9+ with four bolts. Agreeing to be the lead monkey again, i saddled up and immediately showed signs of Elvis Leg on the first real move that traversed cracks. My courage daunted, i continued anyways and made use of the consistent crack, hauling myself up and clipping soley off of awesome fist jams. Everyone again took a lap on this guy, and then agreed that we had all earned dinner. (this was also the only route where we remembered to get the camera out, so enjoy the day's pictures which are mostly of liz totally zooming up this route)



Heading back over the river to our vehicles found that Wade's truck, and the truck behind our car had been broken into, with wallets and purses stolen. Wade took off immediately to cancel his credit cards, and we thanked our lucky stars that we hadn't been targeted. (note to any local readers: LOCK UP YOUR CAR AND HIDE YOUR WALLET) The day ended on a better note, though, with brats and burgers on the grill and veggies deep fried on the stove, while Wade and Gretchen came over to enjoy the CSU v. CU rocky mountain showdown. (CSU also lost handily this weekend, which just solidified a horrible football weekend for the Blocksma household... other than the fact that UofM lost. which feels odd to type after the first week of the season... that is, again...)

So, now that pictures are uploaded, we are off to do it again today - this time with the Calders. Peace out!

9 comments:

dylan said...

Nice work lead monkey! I don't think I recognize the 5.9+ either. Sorry to hear about the thefts...

Kyle Selleck said...

questionable calls in the first quarter + OL and B hoy crapping themselves in the 4th quarter = painful MSU loss.

Here's to beating the crap out of EMU.

Joanna said...

I guess it was just me Doug but I was left wondering if I was really reading English or some form of it :p. Makes me think back to those days at home group where you and Adam started talking and I hadn't got a clue what you were talking about and I wasn't too sure if it was American slang that I hadn't picked up on yet or not.

Kristin Murdock said...

I am totally impressed with Liz. Next up - running a half marathon with me??

Mark said...

I hope the thefts do not recur. Our "local" climbing area in the Midwest was plagued by car break-ins and it just plain sucked. It would be easy to say "take all personal items with you" if not for the ever-present possibility falling in the river and getting everything wet.

DougieB said...

i've been debating if i should add links to climbing jargon, in case any paragraphs suddenly become unreadable to the layman...

dylan said...

Trouble is, climbing still makes no sense, even when translated ;)

Mark said...

I totally flashed the lower overhanging dihedral by yarding on a mono kicking of a slopey crimp :)

DougieB said...

...

bomber.